Tag Archives: Ethiopia

around addis!

hello world!

as many of you know, for the past few weeks our family has been in addis ababa, ethiopia. this friday, we finally got around to touring the city! our guide, gashaw, was awesome and showed us some really cool places.

the first place we visited was called merkato. it is a huge open air market, and the largest market in africa! it’s super busy and pretty chaotic but there’s something beautiful about it.

there are separate sections in the market. the first one we walked through was full of spices and grains: chilis, black and white cumin, turmeric, onion, chickpeas, popcorn, coffee, lentils, barley, and peanuts. those things along with the smell of livestock, incense, and car exhaust was a lot to take in. there were many different smells, sounds, and colors. it was so lively and stimulating.

the second part of the market we walked through was the recycling section, where mainly the men worked. there was an area with lots of recycled plastic items and an area where people were working on used scraps of metal to reuse them.

the third part we explored was where the women were working and we some little kids were hanging around. they were making something called kocho! gashaw explained to us that there is a plant here that looks like a banana tree but grows no fruit, so they call it the false banana tree. they scrape out the trunk of the tree, cut up the fibers very small, dig a pit and line it with false banana leaves, add yeast and let it ferment for at least a month. after that it looks somewhat like cheese. it is then made into a flatbread and served with a raw meat dish called kitfo.

after the chaos of merkato, gashaw took us to chill out with some coffee at tomoca. it’s pretty popular here now and has a few locations, but tamoca was actually the very first coffee shop in addis. we got piping hot macchiatos and shared a few soft pastries. they were delicious!

after tomoca, we went up mount entoto for some views of the city. on the drive up, there were some interesting carvings on the side of the road.

a part of the way up to the lookout, we stopped to get out and see the beautiful hills. as we were taking pictures, pretty soon we realized we had gathered a crowd! a bunch of little kids that lived nearby saw the “ferengi” (or “foreigner” in amharic) and came to check us out. they followed us back to the car and then mom started playing peek-a-boo with a few of them. it was so fun watching them interact, the kids were so sweet.

after a few more minutes in the car, we finally got to the lookout. there were beautiful views of the city and giant fluffy clouds. it was so peaceful and just gorgeous. birds were chirping and breathing in the mountain air was so refreshing.

it was a great end to a great day.

peace out world. thanks for reading!

– maile 🙂

What’s for dinner in Addis? Shiro and injera!

Food…Mmm food is never far from my thoughts. At home our meals are usually served with a staple of rice, pasta, bread, or potatoes. Here in Ethiopia, the staple is injera, a thick, sourdough crepe made from teff, the smallest grain in the world. This is rolled out on a plate and various dishes are served on top, then more injera is served rolled on the side of the plate from which you rip bite size chunks to dip into the other dishes to eat. No utensils, just your fingers and injera!

I love eating this way. There is something about direct contact with the food that makes you pay more attention to, connect more with, maybe even be more appreciative of the food you are eating.

Typically injera topped with one or more thick stews, or wats, and is served on a large platter and shared as a group, though it can also be served individually. We have been in shops mid-day when the guys working were sitting at the back sharing a platter of injera with rice and meat or shiro piled in the middle. (I haven’t yet had the guts to take a pic in one of those moments, though, so this is an “internet” picture!)

(Side commentary: It may sound weird, but we have a house helper. As a foreigner here you are expected to hire a helper. Part of the idea is that you, as a foreigner, are obviously wealthy and should do your part to give back to society by giving gainful employment to one or more individuals. Also, it just takes so much longer to accomplish daily tasks that I would do nothing but manage the kitchen if it weren’t for Menbi, the helper at this house.) Menbi was excited to show me how to make shiro and was very pleased that we enjoyed it when she made it for us before. I watched her last week and this week I get to make it. She said that I am Habasha (Ethiopian) today. 😊

This delicious, simple dish starts with minced onions, adds berbere spice (a ubiquitous spicy red powder that is a blend of local spices) then water and shiro powder (chickpea flour). Bring all of that to a boil, add some salt (maybe bullion powder) and butter and you, my friend, have shiro! Some regions add other veggies, and some add meat, but this is the basic version and I am happy to enjoy it this way.

We made shiro wat (stew made of lentils) and other side veggies for a complete dinner. Yum!

IF we have leftovers, pieces of injera mixed with the shiro, called firfir, and an egg on top makes a delicious breakfast!

Just for fun, here is a YouTube video of the Simpsons having an experience with Ethiopian food.

https://youtu.be/77dkSeuvq2c

I haven’t made injera, and I don’t have a recipe for that, but I do have one for shiro!

Shiro Recipe
Ingredients:

  • 2 small onions, diced
  • Berbere spice mix
  • 6 cups water
  • 4 big scoops (½ cup?) shiro (chickpea) powder
  • 1 or 2 Chicken bouillon cubes
  • 1 T butter (can be more if you want)
  • Dash of black pepper

Directions:

  • In a large saucepan, cook with onions with oil over med heat for 5 minutes
  • Add 1-5 tablespoons berbere (depending on how spicy you want it, we used 1 ½), stirring and adding a little water to keep from burning, until berbere is cooked, about 10 minutes
  • Pour 6 cups of water into pan and bring to boil
  • Sprinkle shiro powder into pan and boil for five minutes.
  • Add bullion cube and bring to a boil again. Then taste and maybe add more. (We added a second)
  • Add the butter and a dash of black pepper if desired
  • Sprinkle shiro powder into pan and boil for five minutes.
  • Add bullion cube and bring to a boil again. Then taste and maybe add more. (We added a second)
  • Add the butter and a dash of black pepper if desired

Oh golly! Have I mentioned how much I love injera and shiro? No, really, I must find an injera supplier when I get home!

Orphan Crisis in Ethiopia: How Can I Help?

It has been just over 3 weeks since our team from All God’s Children International (AGCI) and Rain City Church visited the government-run orphanages in Addis Ababa (see my previous post A Hard Day in Addis Ababa). I am now back in the safety and relative luxury of the bubble which I’ve carefully created for me and my family here in Seattle over the past couple of decades. However, what I experienced in Ethiopia then, and in the days that immediately followed, will stick with me forever.

When we returned back to our guest house after visiting the orphanages, I felt an overwhelming sense of helplessness and despair for those children. How could they ever have the opportunity to break out of a generations-old cycle of poverty, let alone survive, without the benefit of family and a support structure capable of preventing them from falling through the cracks?

The next day, we flew to Mekelle, the capital of Ethiopia’s Tigray region. The landscape was beautiful in an Arizona desert sort of way. The beauty of the surroundings, however, was obscured by the reality that the rocky soil was not exactly conducive to a healthy, sustainable existence. The evidence of that reality lay in the rundown buildings and tattered clothing which seemed to be the unwitting uniform of the people–especially outside of the city. This is the stuff I expected to see long before we arrived in Tigray.

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Street in Samre, Tigray, Ethiopia

What I did not expect, however, was to see the smiling, joy-filled faces of so many otherwise orphan children and their grateful guardians (often single parents fighting serious health battles of their own or other relatives). These children in Mekelle and Samre were not hopeless like the kids we met in the orphanages in Addis Ababa. Instead, they shared with us story after story about how the Educational Sponsorships they received through AGCI allowed them to go to school and help support their families.

Abbey Mekelle
Abbey and some of the sponsored kids in Mekelle.
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Hanging with the boys in Samre.

At this point, I could drone on about my feelings; eventually segueing into an appeal for you to consider helping these kids. Well, if a picture is worth a thousand words, and videos can deliver 60 pictures per second, then I have a feeling that the following vids will be much more effective. Many of the people I met (including the tireless, dedicated local AGCI staff) and the things I experienced are captured by Tati in these videos when she took a similar trip about a year ago. I urge you to please take the time to watch this series (about 22 minutes total) as they do a much better job than I could ever do in this blog.

Sincere thanks ~ Paul

 

The Path to Hope – Series Intro from All God’s Children International on Vimeo.

The Path to Hope – Episode 1 from All God’s Children International on Vimeo.

The Path to Hope – Episode 2 from All God’s Children International on Vimeo.

The Path to Hope – Episode 3 from All God’s Children International on Vimeo.

The Path to Hope – Episode 4 from All God’s Children International on Vimeo.

 

** Featured Image by @angelyn_lauderback (Instagram) **